Day 2 - 20th September

Arrived in Braemar at about 2.30pm, though my map position is a bit south of that at the moment - it seems 3's 3G writ doesn't run in Braemar. I'm in a pleasant single room at the Braemar Lodge - when I arrived in the village I stopped to consult my phone to confirm where I was going to stay, expecting to be looking for a B&B, but it turned out to be the hotel under whose sign I was parked. 146.7 miles today, in 4hr 23 min, including a couple of petrol, and one coffee, stops.

A good trip from Jedburgh, fortified by a fine breakfast. I managed to navigate onto the Forth Bridge without hitting a motorway (though the A720 is one in all but name), and off it up to Perth, this time threading my way along B roads called things like "Old Perth Road".

The Forth is a spectacular bridge, the first big suspension bridge built in Britain after the war, following the lead set in the USA with a stiff deck suspended from vertical hangers - the Severn and Humber are different, see later posts for more info.

I followed the A93 from Perth, it starts off much like the A68, but a bit less wild and with more mud on the road from tractors. But as you climb into the mountains it gets more exciting. There are signs with a motorbike on top and a bends warning - presumably meant for road safety, but to bikers it means "here comes a good bit". As you get above the trees, and signs appear for ski hire, it gets even better, winding through spectacular scenery with mountains on either side and the river alongside the road. It's a steep 12% climb, which needed 2nd gear at times, and I caught some proper heavy rain approaching Spittal of Glenshee which was close to the summit. As I started downhill the sun came out and the road stretched out it front of me with hardly any other traffic. I swooped down for about 10 miles with only the odd sheep to worry about - brilliant. I didn't worry that my legs were wet and cold.

Since I arrived early I've been able to have a walk round, including a look at the Highland Games field where the Queen goes to watch blokes tossing telegraph poles about and force Prince Philip and Prince Charles to wear kilts. There's a sporran shop in the village, it's definitely tartan and dead animals country (there's a pheasant on a shelf outside my room), but I was able to buy some expensive toothpaste - the tube I brought is running out. However, I'll have to wait to get a new watch battery, it stopped just after I left Perth.

The river in Braemar

Braemar including sporran shop

I'm off to see what the hotel restaurant can offer this evening. I noticed they were laying a fire in the bar, so I may try a wee dram in there later on.